After a lot of search on internet and
negotiating with many tour companies we zeroed on Asia Top Travel Company as they customised as per our desire and
their suggestions.
Prior to this I had to read the History
of and Geography of Vietnam and find out the attractions which we would be
interested in. It took almost 3 months of sporadic reading, talking to friends
and of course Google.
We were travelling to Singapore to be
with Bhaiyu and Poonam during Diwali. Initially we planned to travel to
Vietnam and Cambodia at the end of our stay at Singapore.
All the bookings had been done in
advance but last minute cancellation of flight on 14th Nov we left a
day early and booked Hotel Camelia for 13th Night, which was in city
centre – Old Quarter.
13 Nov 2011
The tour guide met us on Hanoi Airport
at about 11:30 am and escorted us to our hotel. The city was about 30 kms away
from the airport. By the time we got settled it was late noon. The guide and the
hotel manager guided us to take a walk around the hotel. It really gave us a
feel of old town and its bustling life. We located an eating joint and with the
help of an English couple decided to try the local cuisine. We zeroed in on Pho – a kind of soup with
homemade noodles, veggies and chunks of chicken thrown in. I managed to gobble
it down with some sauce and sprinklers.
Back to hotel for much needed siesta
before we were ready for our first evening out in Hanoi.
We took a taxi and hurried to visit the
museum but it was already closing time. We returned in a cyclo – a kind of
Indian cycle rickshaw – via Opera House, city centre, lake and old market.
Evening was
an event to remember. We took a street map and started exploring the nearby
market. It was very crowded with no system of crossing the road or giving way
to vehicles or people. Pavements were full of hawkers or the extensions of the
existing shops. We paddled very well after initial hesitation.
With the
spirit of adventure in the air we became adventurous and decided to drink on
the roadside bars. I think this was something very special of Old Quarter in
Hanoi.
Small shops
are bars where there is hardly any place to sit or stock the merchandise.
They provide
very small stools to sit on pavements and even a smaller stool to keep the drink.
No one is denied the place. It was just short of magic how the bar owner accommodated
all the new arrivals. We selected a corner bar on a crossing and were able to
enjoy the happening on all four sides. Hawkers were all around selling snacks
and sweetmeats. Great place to have beer and be part of the crowed.
14 Nov Day 1:
Hanoi Arrival
Upon arriving in Hanoi,
our tour guide met us at the airport and transferred us to hotel for check in. We took a walk to the Ho Hoan Kiem lake,
temple and garden around it. Near the northern part of the lake is jade island
on which the temple of Jade Mountain stands. It is connected with a red wooden
bridge. We did go there but the temple door was closed hence couldn’t go
in. It honours the 13th cent
military leader Tran hung Dao who fought valiantly against Yuan Dynasty. In the
middle of the lake is a tower erected on the turtle islet. We couldn’t go there
as no boat was in sight to row us there.
Most exciting scene was
the men and women dance-exercising on the music with the help of trainers.
We started with a visit to Ho
Chi Minh’s Mausoleum from outside (since Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum closes from
11.30 A.M), It is very sombre and impressive. There is a stark resemblance with
Lenin’s mausoleum in Moscow. I was lucky to see the change of guard. A huge
ground and the big lawns face the mausoleum where the crowd gather to celebrate
their Independence Day Parade and celebrations.
It reminded me of Republic
Day parade at Raj Path of Delhi.
We turned towards left
around the mausoleum and entered the Presidential Palace premises. Small and
beautifully laid garden confronts the visitor but the barriers placed on the
entry road prohibits us to go further. The guide advised us to take the photos
from distance. It came as a rude
shock after the denial of entry at Mausoleum.
It was built in 1900 to
1906 by French during occupation for the Governor General,President Ho Chi Minh
didn’t stay in it after independence in 1954 due to populist measure saying it
is too grand for his life style. He built a traditional Vietnamese stilt house
and carp pond on the grounds. It is now the part of Presidential Palace
Historical site.
Just behind the palace we
visited another tourist spot – the house on stilts. Ho Chi Minh lived and
worked here from 1958 to 1969. It illustrates the importance of simplicity and
modesty of this revolutionary leader. The two upstairs rooms are study and
bedroom and the ground floor is a
meeting room with a simple table with 8-10 chairs. The carp pound adjacent to
it provided him a serene walk and fishing opportunity.
13.00 – 14.00 We visited the
Temple of Literature that was originally built as a temple to
Confucius, this is the site
of Vietnam’s first University dating back to 1070. The temple highlights
the importance that
Vietnamese society place then and now on education.It is also known as temple
of Confucious. It was first constructed in 1070For nearly 1000 years it has
preserved its ancient architectural style of many dynasties and precious relics
at the sanctuary. It has gone through many destruction due to wars, disasters
and restorations.
14.00: We were back to the
centre of Hanoi. Took one hour Cyclo Tour through the Old Quarter:
thousands of small
businesses and shopkeepers. Originally each of the 36 names’ was related
to the products being sold
there. It’s a great place to explore on foot with numerous photo
opportunities. Once again
we walked around Hoan Kiem Lake and visit Ngoc Son temple on
the Hoan Kiem Lake, its
history dating back to the 13th century. The temple is reached by
crossing the The Huc Bridge
which literally means the ‘Place Touched by Morning Sunbeams’.
The Hoan Kiem Lake is the
local point of the city and the source of many legends. I was pleasantly
surprised to see people worshipping in the morning in typical Indian style with
folded hands and placing incense in front of the idol.
At the end of the day, we enjoyed
the traditional water puppet performance in a theatre. It was something I had
never seen. Only regret was that photography was not allowed. We had drinks at
roadside bar on the street of Old Quarter followed by dinner.
We stayed in Hong Ngoc 3 Hotel.
15 Nov Day
2: Hanoi - Ha Long Bay
After the continental
breakfast at the hotel, the driver, picked us to take us to travel to Halong
Bay. The world heritage site, Halong Bay, is truly one of Vietnam’s most
impressive scenic sights. Upon arrival at Ha Long, we were welcomed by our
local guide on board Phoenix Cruise. Heading out of the town we embarked on a
Chinese style junk for an exploration of the legendary Halong Bay.
This exciting cruise
provided a fantastic view of the picturesque scenery blending with some
3,000 limestone islands and
islets rising amazingly from the clear and emerald water. It being a cloudy day
the colours all around were hazy – not a good light for photographs. Sea food
lunch was served while
cruising through the bay.
The limestone karsts
formations are littered with beaches. We explored the Sung Sot Caves which still reserve much of the amazing original
stalactites and stalagmites. We stayed overnight on the boat.
The cave
is partitioned into two chambers. The first one appeared to be a wide theatre
hall illminated with artificial rainbow lights. A narrow passage leads to
another where natural light from the opening at the ceiling illuminates the
walls.
16 nov Day
3: Ha Long Bay- Hanoi – night train to Lao Cai
Wake up in the morning to
the calming sound of the waves crashing on the nearby islands. You
enjoy a morning coffee and
watch the world going by in the bay. Sitting on the upper deck and
enjoy the breath-taking
beauty of the rocky islands rising from the crystal-clear water of the
bay. The quiet is almost
eerie; we can hear birds singing, cicadas chirping ashore and the gentle
lapping of the waves
against our boat, the perfect soundtrack to accompany the fresh air and
gentle breeze.
We again took a boat ride
to Ti Top island situated about 7-8 kms south-east of Bai Chay. On 22 Nov 1962,
this tiny island was visited by a Russian astronaut, Ghermann Ti Top. It is
named to commemorate his visit with Ho Chi Minh. It has beautiful beach with
white sands. We climbed up about 370 steps to have a panoramic view of the bay.
Our Junk starts cruising
back while the brunch was served. The chef took a demo cookery lesson of spring
rolls. Arrived at harbor by 12:00 noon, and were transferred straight back to
hotel in Hanoi.
We again went out to have a
walk around Old Quarter and Dong Xuan Market and enjoyed the last few hours in
Hanoi. By 7:30 pm our guided helped us board the train, King Express to Sapa.
There was no over-head bridge or subway. We had to drag our luggage crossing
hoards of rail tracks to reach to the platform. The train had an old world
feel; compartment of four soft berths with clean bed linen.
17 Nov Day
4 :Lao Cai – Sapa – Cat Cat
Upon arrival at Lao Cai
Railway station in the early morning, guide and driver received us at the exit of
the railway station. It was an hour’s drive up hill to Sapa town. We were
driven to a restaurant for bath and breakfast. We stroll around Sapa town,
visited Ham Rong mountain and Sapa market and chatting with H’Mong, Dao people
who come to market for trading. Colourful tribal dress, purses, aluminum
bracelet, silver necklaces, horn comb at all sorts can be found from stalls on
the second floor of the building. Ground floor of the market is lively with all
sorts of green vegetables, fruits, foods cultivated in Sapa.
Ham Rong Mountain climb
seemed intimidating at the start but it turned out to be the most beautiful cultivated
mountain-garden. Natural black rock formations were captivating. On way up we
had to go through the market, small houses and old French colonial buildings.
We had the feel of the life and engagements of local people.
Some shops were selling
snake wine – literally snakes were inside the wine bottles. Likewise many wines
with different insects inside were there for sale.
Up on the mountain it was
panoramic view of the sapa town.
they have made a cultural centre and arranged
a folk dance programme for visitors. Few girls and boys in their traditional
dress performed. We climbed down to Sapa town and way back was much easier and less
strenuous. Next on the agenda was a walk to Cat Cat village of the Black H’Mong
people. These people wear Black dress specially a black scarf covers their
hair. It was opposite to Ham Rong
Mountain. We stepped down abour 370 steps to the river stream. The people lived
in the narrow alleys and small huts. The men work in fields and womenfolk were
engaged in weaving, dyeing and embroidery.
We visited a local H’Mong friendly family and enrich our tribal
knowledge with the help of local guide’s passion
We crossed the small river
bridge to come otherside to come back to Sapa Town. On way back near the river
side we took rest in a roadside stall with a glass of apple wine. We had
decided earlier to go to Guide’s house on way back and she will prepare local
food for us. We were really very tired
by walking about 3 hours to and fro Cat Cat Village. We came back to our hotel
and decided to take rest at the hotel instead of walking once again to Guide’s
house for dinner.. We took dinner that night in an Indian restaurant.
Approx:
1,5 hour driving/ 3 hours walking/ 1 hour lunch.
Meals:
Breakfast
Accommodation:
Hotel - Holiday Sapa
18 Nov Day
5: Sapa - Sapa - Heaven Gate – Ta Phin - Sapa – night train back to Hanoi
Pick up at the hotel and travel toward the Silver Waterfall, and
Heaven Gate, the highest peak
of roads in Vietnam. Enjoy a stunning view and watch Fansipan
mount,
Next morning we travelled
to Heaven Gate and had wonderful view of Fansipan mountains the top roof of Indochina
3143 meters. It is 3 kms climb from silver waterfall it is a long and difficult
trek to the mountain. We decided against it and enjoyed the breath taking view
from Heaven Gate. It is the highest stretch of road in Vietnam.
Heaven
Gate Fancipan
Mountains
On way back we visited
Silver Water fall which is 5 km short
of Sapa town. It is alongside the road with a height of 100 mts, its a big one
and the loop track is steep and scenic. Sapa is the coldest place in Vietnam..\
Silver
Water Fall
The walk was planned at a
point nearby the waterfall, by a descent on a trail through bamboo
forest, which belongs to
Hoang Lien National Park. It again involved lots of walking which deterred us. We came back to Sapa town.
Toll
to pay before entry to Ta Phin
After lunch, we took a taxi
ride to Ta Phin village, where Community Based Tourism in Sapa
takes place. This happened
to be the village of our guide, MayLinh. The village is inhabited by the Red
Dzao ethnic tribe. These are identified by women wearing red scarf on head
hiding the hair. It was also revealed that all married women have to hide hair
by tying in red turban. We got down to the main road and walk ensued on a side
road to Ta Phin village. We came across a ruin of bombed building where nuns
stayed. It was real hot sunny day and the walk didn’t seem to end. We took lift
from two bike riders and came to village centre. It was cool under the shade
and hoards of red turbaned women thronged the centre displaying their
handicrafts for sale. A bargained ensued and some and tempted me to buy few
souvenirs.
I also met the mother of
May Linh, a very affable old woman. Male members of family were out on their
farms and women were at Handicraft Centre busy embroidering dresses, bags,
scarves etc. We also visited a facility of herbal bath. Tempted with the idea
we went there but looking at the barrel of herbal water it seemed very
unhygienic to get into those where others might have been sitting before us. We
took some refreshment at the local shop which was designed to cater the
tourists. The owners of such shops provide bed and breakfast for budget
travellers.
It took us about two hours
before the van picked us to travel back to Lao Cai train station for night
train back to Hanoi. On way back May Linh casually mentioned about proximity to China Border. We requested the driver and
May Linh to take us to the international border which they agreed after
consulting their office on phone. By the time we reached there it was dark and
no time for the photo shoot, still I took some very poorly lit photos.
Obelisk at Vietnam side Vietnam China Border border post
Just a small river is the border
between Vietnam and China. The trade between two countries is voluminous. China
buys raw material from Vietnam and sells finished products in Vietnam. Viets
don’t need visa or passport to travel to China. They have been issued cards
which enable them to travel unhindered to China. We came back to Lao Cai
Railway station to take night train to Hanoi which departed at 20.35.
The whole trip involved
approximately two hours of drive and 3 hours of walking.
19 Nov Day
6: Hanoi arrival - flight to Danang – Hoi An
It was vVery comfortable
night journey in the train which arrived at Hanoi around 4.30 A.M. The Guide,
Phong, received us on the station with a driver who transferred us to the
airport for flight
to Danang. We met, Minh,
another guide at Danag Airport and drove about.......miles to reach the Vinh
Hung 2 Hotel at Hoi An. A very intelligent and informed Minh kept on giving us
inputs during our drive to Hoi An.
Danang: One of the major
towns of Central Vietnam had a long history. It is also a famous tourist
destination for Golf playing visitors. We drove through Danang to Hoi An
foto
Hoi An
In 1999, the old town
was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO as a well-preserved example of a
Southeast Asian trading port of the 15th to 19th centuries, with buildings that
display a unique blend of local and foreign influences.
The
city possessed the largest harbour in Southeast Asia in the 1st century and
was known Champa City. Between the seventh and 10th centuries, the Cham (people
of Champa) controlled the
strategic spice trade and with this came
tremendous wealth. The boats
still used today in Hoi An probably have
the same hull shape as those used by the Champas for ocean voyages.
The
former harbour town of the Cham at the estuary of the Thu Bồn River was an important
Vietnamese trading centre in the 16th and 17th centuries, where Chinese from various provinces
as well as Japanese, Dutch and Indians settled. During this
period of the China trade, the town was called Hai Pho (Seaside Town) in Vietnamese.
Originally, Hai Pho was a divided town with the Japanese settlement across the
"Japanese Bridge" (16th-17th century). The bridge (Chùa cầu) is a
unique covered structure built by the Japanese, the only known covered bridge
with a Buddhist pagoda attached to one side.
Old town across river
Japanese Bridge
A view of
old town – a world heritage site
Afternoon, enjoyed a
walking tour through the Old Quarter. Hoi An is also famous for its large
number of tailor shops.
They deliver the made to order clothes at the hotel within 24 hours.
Streets are named after the
countries from where people came and settled down; specially China and Japan.
Still such people live here and maintain their culture and life style. The
river water was just a feet below the
road level. I was not very comfortable but people in the roads were quite ok
with it.
In one of the old houses
inmates have arranged a small programme of Chinese folk songs and dances for
the visitors. I didn’t understand the words but the music and dance were
captivating.
We visited an old
traditional two storied Chinese house which was largely made of wood. The front
room is for the male head of the family to receive people. Here all males spend
their mornings and evenings except for going out for work. An opening in the
ceiling of this hall is made to let the inmates know what is going on in the
hall. Or, in case of floods-which is a frequent occurrence- the luggage can be
shifted upstairs through ropes.
wooden house courtyard with
plants opening in
the floor
Females remain inside
cooking and rearing children. Every couple is given a small wooden cabin to
sleep. Elderly ladies sleep in a bigger common room. A small open courtyard
surrounded by rooms and walls is for women to relax. No outsider can peep
inside this courtyard.
We went through local fruit
and vegetable market and Avi got the much needed supari though it was fresh
green. He also had pan for the first time in whole of his trip. We came across
tiger balm and couldn’t refrain from buying.
Accommodation:
Hotel in Hoi An - Vinh Hung 2 hotel/
Meal: None
20 Nov Day
7: Hoi An - Hue
This morning we drive to Hue, we will cross Hai Van Pass where you
will have magnificent view
of the China Sea. Stop at Lang Co to have break. Visit the
fascinating Cham Museum, famous
China Beach and the Marble Mountains en route to Hue. Arrive Hue,
check in the hotel and free
at leisure.
Next morning we drove to
Hue escorted by Minh. The drive was beautiful in the morning sun
And we came upon Hai Van
Pass.
The
twisting road on the pass has long been a challenge for drivers travelling
between the cities of Huế and Đà Nẵng. Since the
completion of Hai Van Tunnel, traffic flow and
safety have improved.[1] The pass has been the
scene of at least two of Vietnam's most serious rail accidents, and at least one air crash.
Minh
advised us not to take the tunnel as we would miss out on the landscapes and
magnificent view of South China Sea.
Hai Van
Tunnel
The project's major constructors were a Vietnam-Japan joint
venture, Hazama-Cienco 6, and a joint venture between Korea's Dong Ah construction
company and Vietnam's Song Da Construction Corporation.
The tunnel officially opened on June 5, 2005.
The main tunnel is 11.9 meters wide. A second tunnel running
alongside the main tunnel is currently used for maintenance and emergencies but
it is planned to expand this at a later date as traffic increases. It is
connected to the main tunnel by 15 cross-tunnels. The tunnels have lighting,
fire alarms, communication, water supply and treatment, ventilation fans, and
radio broadcast systems. The tunnel subsequently has received an award for
quality by the American Construction Management Association.
Lang Co Beach
Lang
Co is an attractive, island-like stretch of palm-shaded white sand, with a
crystal-clear, turquoise lagoon on one side and 10 kilometres of beachfront on
the other. Unfortunately the beach and the edges of the lagoon can turn into
litter traps. Many open-tour buses make a lunch stop here and it makes a fine
place to hop off for a night or two, depending on the weather. Lang Co was devastated
by a major typhoon in late 2006, but within a few weeks all of the resorts had
reopened and rebuilding was well underway.
There are spectacular views of Lang Co from
the Hai Van Pass.
Cham
Museum
The Museum of Cham
Sculpture is a museum located
in Hai Chau
district, Đà Nẵng, central Vietnam. The museum was founded in
1915 as the Musée Henri
Parmentier during the
colonial French era to preserve the finds of the ancient Champa kingdom and is
the only museum in the world dedicated solely to this era. It houses the
largest collection of Cham sculpture. The building
is situated by the Han River. It is a
popular tourist destination
The Museum’s first
building was opened in 1919, but many Cham sculptures collected in Da Nang,
Quang Nam and elsewhere were brought to the site over the preceding twenty
years. The collection was begun by French archaelogists and experts from
L’École Francaise d’Extrême Orient (EFEO). Some artefacts were sent to Paris
and others to the Ha Noi and Sai Gon (now Ho Chi Minh City) museums, but many
typical objects were left in Tourane (now Da Nang).
China Beach
China
Beach, Vietnam, an endless expanse of unspoiled
white sand beach, is one of the best beaches in Vietnam. It is more famous
among the American and Australian soldiers for being the landing ground during
the Vietnam War. China Beach lies a few kilometers to the south of Danang within close range to the
Marble Mountains, one of the Vietnam popular destinations.
China Beach seems
to still cling to its past horrors of war with the ruins of the military base
like the helicopter hangars lying in the beach. Nevertheless, China Beach today
is regarded as one of the preferred Vietnam tourist attractions with its
expansive white sand beach and friendly people. China Beach today
has grown to house a small community of guesthouse owners, marble statue shops,
and other various trades.
With its vast expanse of pristine water and clean unspoiled beach, China
Beach, Vietnam gives an invigorating experience to the visitors. A
swim in the clear water or a long walk along the clean grainy sand that extends
up to several kilometers is a must for the visitors here. For those who love a
luxurious stay, China Beach has the best to offer in Vietnam, the Furama
Resort. This is an award winning resort with best accommodation facilities
along with a range of recreational activities like diving and water sports.
This resort offers 200 luxuriously furnished rooms and suites. We had a very
short stay at the beach as swimming was not allowed and a danger sign was
posted there.
Marble Mountains: We drove to the marble
mountains which are almost on the outskirts of Danang city.
View taken from one of the mountains
Marble
Mountains (Five elements
mountains) is a cluster of five marble and limestone hills
located in Ngu Hanh Son ward, south of Da Nang city in Vietnam. The five 'mountains'
are named after the five elements; Kim (metal), Thuy (water), Moc (wood), Hoa
(fire) and Tho (earth). All of the mountains have cave entrances and numerous
tunnels, and it is possible to climb to the summit of one of the peaks. Several
buddhist sanctuaries can also be found within the mountains, making this a
famous tourist destination.The area is famous for stone sculpture making and
stone-cutting crafts. Direct rock extraction from the mountains was banned
recently. Materials are now being transported from quarries in Quang
Nam province.
As of 2003 the district had a population of 50,105 . The district covers an
area of 37 km. The district capital lies at Da Nang.
On way near the mountains were many workshops and showrooms displaying
the statues and other marble artefacts.
They have provided a lift which takes us to second level but our
guide for the reason known to him took us through the steps. It was a real
climb and Avi decided to hold on the first level and I went along with him to
the rest of caves dedicated to Buddha and some Hindu Gods.
Brief on caves nestled in the mountains: There are numerous
tunnels and cave entrances in here which make it more alluring to the tourists.
One of the caves had two large statues of gods guarding the entrance. Statues
of Buddha are present inside many caves. Since 1975 the Marble Mountains has
gained popularity as one of the major Vietnam popular destinations.
The Marble Mountains are also home to quite a few
Buddhist sanctuaries. These are one of the greatest draws of Marble Mountains, Vietnam. The
mountains were used by the war lords in the past to store their wealth and it
was the responsibility of the monks to safeguard the wealth, the caves and the
passengers. No one knows for sure how much wealth was hidden in these
mountains. Only the monks as the custodians had the information and they were
the only people who knew the various ways inside the mountains.
Beside the monasteries the area is prominent for stone sculpture making
and stone cutting crafts. These are traditional practices and the Marble
Mountains, Vietnam are renowned for its excellence in the field. In the
mountains is the village of Dong Hai which has around 600 families involved in
the business of stone engraving. The villagers are also skilled in jewelry and
art work. Vietnam exports stones extracted from Marble Mountains. Recently
the government has banned rock extraction in the area which has led to
transportation of materials from the quarries in Quang Nam province.
There is a village at the base of Marble Mountains, Vietnam called
Nui Kim Son meaning Mountain of Gold. Earlier it was the artisans from this
village who made jewellery for the war lords. Today it is still the livelihood
of many villagers.
Thuy Son (water) is the highest peak in Marble Mountains, Vietnam. Its fascinating beauty has resulted in
its development as a major tourist attraction. Today it has turned into a
popular tourist resort. The Tam Thai Pagoda is a major tourist attraction here.
Carved into the mountains are atone steps that lead both to the Pagoda and the
Huyen Khong Cave. This pagoda has an interesting history of its own. Earlier
both Hindu and Buddhist gods were paid tribute here. Today it is devoted to
Cham deities. The Huyen Khong Cave played an important role during the wars. It
was one of the vital bases for the revolutionaries
buddhist temple
pagoda
hanuman
It took me almost one hour of climb and many more steps to go into
caves and enjoy the marvel of human endurance and devotion. Avi regretted that
he declined to go up.
After this visit to mountains we drove down to Hue, another
ancient town.
By the time we reached Hue in
the afternoon, the sky was heavily
overcast and occasional showers seemed threatening and my apprehensions became
stronger that we might have to stay indoors or buy raincoats and retrieve our
trip in whatever way it was possible. On Minh’s (our guide) advice we hurried
up to Perfume river for the boat ride as the river was in spate and with
looming rains it might have become unmanageable next day.
The river makes a beautiful sight and with
the mountain breeze and the smell of plants and mountain trees coming from its
water source, the river brings with it the smell of the mountains too. And this
is probably why the river was named “Perfume River”. It is very close to sea
hence it is very wide. I read somewhere that it is slow because of nearness to the
sea but on that day it was very rapid and looked intimidating. Minh explained
that due to rains, floods and typhoon the river changes its character.
Nearby, the Ngu Binh Mountain provides a
magnificent backdrop with its symmetrical shape. Together, the mountain and the
river offer a marvellous view to visitors of Hue. Often, tourists refer to Hue
as “the land of the Perfume River and the Ngu Binh Mountain”.From both sides of
the river, from the Citadel, the gardens, pagodas, fortress and temples, the view
of the river is also breathtaking. The reflections from the water inspire
romance and whimsical imagination. The poetic emotions roused by the river are
what most believe to be the reason why Hue is perceived as a peaceful, quiet
and a sleepy city by many tourists. And Hue is indeed a tranquil city,
seemingly oblivious to the modern changes happening all around it.
A family of four lived on the boat which took
us around. The houses are costly and many families live on the boat, taking
tourists around and selling curios and mementoes to them.
We got down to the other side of
the river and went to see Thien Mu
pagoda. It is an active Buddhist monestry.
Built in 1601 on the order of
the first Nguyen Lords, Nguyen Hoang, who at
that time was the governor of Thuan Hoa (now known as Hue). According to the royal
annals, Hoang while touring the vicinity, was told of the local legend in which
an old lady, known as Thiên Mụ
(literally "celestial lady"), dressed in red and blue sat at the
site, rubbing her cheeks. She foretold that a lord would come and erect a
pagoda on the hill to pray for the country's prosperity. She then vanished
after making her prophecy. Upon hearing this, Hoang ordered the construction of
a temple at the site, thus the beginning of Thiên
Mụ Tu.
Phuoc Duyen
Tower, Thien Mu Pagoda stone turtle
with a stele on its back
The temple also contains a statue of a large marble turtle, a symbol of
longevity. Beside the tower on either side are structures that record the
architectural history of the tower, as well as various poems composed by Thiệu
Trị.
In the main
hall, there is a statue of Maitreya Buddha and afternoon prayers
were going on. In rain drenched weather we were asked to remove shoes and
raincoats wherever there was a statue of Buddha. It was irritating many a time
but religious sensitivity had to be taken care of.
The pagoda and its buildings were severely
damaged in a cyclone in 1904. Emperor Thanh Thai authorised reconstructions in 1907 and it has continued to the current
day, although it was still substantially less grand and expansive as its
halcyon days of the Nguyễn Dynasty before the storm. Today, a tourist facility
is also present among the gardens and grounds of the temple, and a stupa has
been erected in honour of Hòa Thượng Thích Ðôn Hậu, the abbot the pagoda during
its resconstruction phase in the 20th century. His holy body is entombed in the
stupa, which is a garden of pine trees
During the
summer of 1963, Thien Mu Pagoda, like many in South Vietnam, became
a hotbed of anti-government protest. South Vietnam's Buddhist majority had long
been discontented with the rule of President Ngo Dinh Diem since his rise to power in 1955. Diem had shown strong
favouritism towards Catholics and discrimination against Buddhists in the army,
public service and distribution of government aid. In the countryside,
Catholics were de facto exempt from performing corvée (unfree but paid minimal in kind) labour and in some rural areas, Catholic priests led
private armies against Buddhist villages. Discontent with Diem exploded into
mass protest in Hue during the summer of 1963 when nine Buddhists died at the hand of Diem's army and police on Vesak, the birthday of Gautama Buddha. In May 1963, a law
against the flying of religious flags was selectively invoked; the Buddhist flag was banned from display on Vesak while the Vatican flag was displayed to celebrate the anniversary of the
consecration of Archbishop Ngo Dinh Thuc, Diem's
brother. The Buddhists defied the ban and a protest that began with a march
starting from Tu Dam Pagoda to the government broadcasting station was ended when
government forces opened fire. As a result, Buddhist protests were held across
the country and steadily grew in size, asking for the signing of a Joint Communique to end religious inequality. Thien Mu Pagoda was a major
organising point for the Buddhist movement and was often the location of hunger
strikes, barricades and protests.
In the early 1980s, a
person was murdered near the pagoda and the site became the focal point of
anti-communist protests, closing traffics around the Phú Xuân Bridge. The
communist government responded by arresting monks on the charge of disturbing
traffic flow and public order.
The temple also houses the Austin motor vehicle in which Thich Quang Duc was driven to his self-immolation in Saigon in 1963 against the Diem regime. It was
the first of a series of self-immolations by members of the Buddhist clergy,
which brought the plight of Buddhists to the attention of the international
community.
The sky was becoming menacing and it was
advisable to go back to the hotel. But we were happy that we did the boat ride
and saw the pagoda a day early as the
Minh was not sure of the weather next day. We
Accommodation:
Hotel in Hue - Duy
Tan 2 hotel
Meal:
Breakfast,
21 Nov Day
8: Hue City tour
Hue
Overview
For a
comprehensive Hue Overview,
it is essential to trace the growth of the city from its very beginning to what
it has become today, along with many additions that have taken place, as it
evolved over a course of many years, leaving a mark on the pages of Vietnam's
history. Hue was the capital of Vietnam during the feudal rule from 1802 to
1945 under the Nguyen dynasty and subsequently the centre of architectural
evolution of the era. Not surprisingly, it is known for the magnificent
architecture of its citadels, palaces, royal tombs, pagodas and temples
juxtaposed against a lush scenic background of greenery on the banks of the
Perfume River, inspiring many poetries and eulogies for their spellbinding
beauty.
The various structures that are a hallmark of the ancient
architecture of the land are laid out in harmony with nature and in accordance
with the principles of geomancy (feng shui). Apart from its splendid monuments
that are a fond reminder of the past glory of the city, the ancient traditions
and practices of the people of Hue are still an innate part of the modern day
life today. One can get a vivid glimpse of the cultural traditions of Hue, as
passed down from generations, in their daily routines and activities in
religion, gastronomy, handicraft, music, the performing arts and traditional
festivals.
It is due to these cultural treasures and vestiges that Hue became
Vietnam's first World Cultural Heritage site recognized by UNESCO in 1993.
After the breakfast, keeping our fingers
crossed we moved out for city tour with Minh. Sky was still menacing and I was
really more concerned about the photos. My previous day’s photos were all dim and
hazy.
We went for a round to the
nearby area to have a feel for it before we went for sightseeing. Markets were
crowded with morning shoppers for fruits and vegetables. The road side eateries
were doing brisk business.
We took a taxi and went straight
to Citadel
Citadel: It’s imposing
structure is visible from distance with Vietnam flag. A day before we saw it
while boating in Perfume River.
The riverside flag tower in front of the citadel.
|
The main reason to visit Hue is the citadel of the old capitol, along with the
royal tombs scattered around the countryside. The citadel was begun in 1804 and
served as Vietnam's capital until around 1945. The first thing you'll see on
approaching it is the big flag tower (Cot
Co). The photo above was taken from the Ngo Mon Gate, the main
entrance to the citadel. All visitors must enter by this gate, and pay the
55,000 Dong (2.75 USD) entrance fee.
The Phoenix Gate to the citadel.
|
The lower part of the gate is stone, while on top is the "Belvedere of the
Five Phoenixes" where the emperor appeared on important occasions, and
where the last emperor abdicated to Ho Chi Minh's Revolutionary Government in
1945.
Bridge across a moat to the Thai Hoa Palace.
|
Just inside the gate is a lotus pond with a bridge once reserved for the
emperor's private use. Across the bridge is the Thai Hoa Palace used for
official receptions and other important court ceremonies. The columns
supporting the roof are lacquered and inlaid with gold.
You have to use your imagination to see the Forbidden
Purple City.
|
Behind the Thai Hoa Palace are a pair of smaller halls used by mandarins to
prepare for court ceremonies. The halls form a courtyard, the fourth side of
which was once a wall dividing the more public area of the citadel from the
emperor's private residence, the "Forbidden Purple City." The name
conjures up images of grand palaces like Beijing. Unfortunately, it takes quite
a bit of imagination to picture the buildings that once occupied what is now a
grassy expanse. What wasn't destroyed by a fire in 1947 was bombed in the 1968
Tet Offensive. The picture at above left was taken from the upper-most level
looking back at the Thai Hoa palace and the Flag tower.
The Thai Binh Lau, or Royal Library.
|
Off to one side of the central axis of the forbidden city, about midway, is the Thai
Binh Lau or Royal
Library. This small building stands in a garden and is fronted by small pond
mostly taken up by a mountain-island well-grown with moss and bonsai. You will
find similar ponds, fountains or even large bowls of water in many structures
all over Vietnam.
Exit gate off the side of the citadel.
|
Although you must enter the citadel through the main gate, you can exit it at
several other points. Between the Thai Hoa palace and the halls of the
mandarins, a path leads to the Hien Nhon gate (left). Leaving by this gate is the shortest route to get
from the forbidden city to themuseum
at Long An palace. Along the path are a couple of buildings worth a look.
Then, we continue to visit
a tomb monument of King Tu Duc and Khai Dinh which are located in a very
special area. More than just a tomb visiting, it’s the chance to learn more
about Nguyen King and the landscape is spectacular. Back to hotel in the late
afternoon.
There
are six tombs of different kings but Minh suggested us to see two most
important ones.
Royal
tomb of King Tu Duc:
tomb
Ravages of weather and war Tu Duc’s mother’s palace
It was
spread in a very large area and it seemed that whole city was developed in Tu
Duc’s time along with his own tomb. He lived and ruled from here leaving the
Citadel , the seat of power of earlier dynasty
The Tu Duc Royal Tomb in Hue, Vietnam is
one of several Royal Tombs in the outskirts of
the former Imperial Capital. was built between 1864 and 1867, and was designed
as a tribute to the fourth Nguyen Emperor’s long and somewhat sad life.
Tu Duc struggled with rebellion, French
encroachment, and court intrigues for thirty-odd years (Tu Duc is the longest-reigning
Nguyen Emperor on record). Towards the end of his life, the Emperor retreated
into his tomb, creating a fantasy-land where he could compose poetry, hunt, and
console himself through his concubines.
No other Royal Tomb in Hue can compare to
Tu Duc’s in the department of size and luxuriousness. The tomb’s architecture
was designed to work in harmony with the carefully-manicured landscape.
The Emperor used this site as his home
away from home, so everything had to meet the Emperor’s exacting
specifications: a sprawling 30-acre manor that could accommodate the Emperor
and his entire retinue; pine forests and manicured grounds where the Emperor
could walk undisturbed; pleasure pavilions where the Emperor could write verse;
and a lake with its own small island, where the Emperor could hunt miniature
animals if he so wished.
For all that, the Emperor affected
humility as his end neared, adding the word Khiem, or “modesty”, to all the
building names in his tomb complex.
The tomb site and its buildings are
relatively well-preserved despite the ravages of war and time, and serve as a
reminder that money and power can only buy one so much happiness.
Emperor Tu Duc enjoyed the longest reign of any monarch of the
Nguyen dynasty, ruling from 1848-83. Although he had over a hundred wives and
concubines, he was unable to father a son (possibly he became sterile after
contracting smallpox). Thus, it fell to him to write his own epitaph on the
deeds of his reign. He felt this was a bad omen, but the epitaph can still be
found inscribed on the stele in the pavilion just to the east of the Emperor's
tomb. This stele is the largest of its type in Vietnam, and had to be brought
here from a quarry over 500 kilometers away--a trip that took four years.
Tu Duc began planning his tomb long before his death in 1883.
The major portions of the tomb complex were completed from 1864-67, along with
future temple buildings that served as a palatial retreat for Tu Duc and his
many wives during his lifetime. Construction of the tomb demanded so much
corvee labor and extra taxation that there was an abortive coup against Tu Duc
in 1866. This was put down, and for the remainder of his life, Tu Duc continued
to use the tomb's palace buildings as his place of residence.
Amenities for the living are unmatched at any other tomb in
Vietnam. Here, the Emperor could boat on the lake and hunt small game on the
tiny island in the lake's middle. He could recline at Xung Khiem Pavilion and
recite or compose poetry in the company of his concubines. After trips on the
lake, the boats would moor at Du Khiem Pavilion, from which the Emperor and his
entourage could walk directly west into the palace area of the tomb.
After the Emperor's death in 1883 his adopted son Kien Phuc took
over as the Nguyen Emperor. Perhaps because he only ruled seven months before
dying, a separate tomb was not established for him. Instead, he was laid to
rest in a small corner on the grounds of Tu Duc's tomb. Between the tombs of Tu
Duc and his son is the tomb of Empress Le Thien Anh, Tu Duc's primary wife.
Interestingly, despite the grandeur of the site and the amount
of time Tu Duc spent here, he was actually buried in a different, secret
location somewhere in Hue. To keep the secret safe the 200 laborers who buried
the king were all beheaded after they returned from the secret route. To this
day, the real tomb of Tu Duc remains hidden for future generations to discover.
Tomb
of Khai Din:
Colonial Influences
View up the tomb of Khai Dinh
|
If the tomb of Tu duc is
"the sublime" then the tomb of Khai Dinh is the ridiculous. Unlike
many of the other tombs, this one is built into the side of a hill, and is,
essentially, all of one piece. Its more European that the other tombs, having
been built towards the end of the Nguyen period when the French were beginning
to dominate the country. Parts of this concrete construction resemble a finely
carved sugar confection.
Googly eyes of a dragon on the stele pavilion.
|
Still, there are elements similar to the other tombs. There is the sequence of
three courtyards, here separated by stairs instead of grand avenues. In the
middle courtyard is a pavilion containing a stele like the other tombs. The
columns supporting this pavilion's roof are decorated with carved dragons
sporting glass eyes (right). Its a bit over the top, in
my opinion.
Of course, "understated" is not a term you would use at all in
regards to this structure. Up some more stairs from the stele is the main
building. Outside is all white carved stone, while inside every inch of wall is
covered with three-dimensional murals made out of colorful bits of broken
pottery. The outer chamber depicts scenes of the seasons and other designs (left). It's clever, if not exactly my idea of beauty.
The real gaudiness is reserved for the inner chamber. Here, a gilt life-size
statue of Khai Dinh sits enthroned under a canopy also decorated with bits of
broken porcelain while the ceiling is a painted sky full of dragons (right).
Many guidebooks are very
derogatory about this tomb. Granted, it's not all to my taste, it's rather
kitsch, but is not completely unsuccessful. And the view from the top of the
stairs is definitely one which fits the eternal tastes of an emperor, even in
the rain.
Dong Ba Market
There are many market which have come up but
this is the oldest and modt traditional reflecting the culture and way of life
of the locals. Back to its history, Dong Ba market was originally positioned
outside the citadel's Chanh Dong gate, where currently stands the park at the
end of the Phan Dang Luu street. The market was totally burn down in 1885. Two
years later, Emperor Dong Khanh had it rebuilt and named it Dong Ba. However,
in the year of 1889, King Thanh Thai had it moved to the present site which is
about 100km north of Truong Tien Bridge. It is the convenient location that
leads to its popularity. Under the greatest restoration in 1987, Dong Ba market
was much upgraded into the area of 47.614 square meters attracting from 5000 to
7000 people coming everyday.
We gave it a miss due to wet weather and by
late afternoon we came back to hotel. We again went out in the evening in the
nearby area and enjoyed a leisure walk till bed time.
22 Nov Day
9: Hue – Saigon
7.10 A.M After our
breakfast at the hotel, the driver came at the hotel lobby and
Transferred us to the airport to take the morning flight to
Saigon which departed at 8.50 AM
10.10 am :
we arrived at Saigon airport, met Asia Top Travel tour
expert, Mai, at the hotel lobby. We had an introductory talk with her. She was
very pleasant and well informed.
First of all we went to see
the famous Cu Chi Tunnels.
The Cu Chi Tunnels are a network of underground tunnels, carved
out by hand, located 55 miles northwest of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). About two
hours' drive from the former South Vietnam capital, Cu Chi Tunnels today
comprise a popular Saigon tourist destination that provides visitors with an
evocative look at Vietnam War history.
No grimy, insect-ridden hellholes here; the Vietnamese
government has cleaned the place up and set up numerous exhibits around the
site, not to mention a well-stocked souvenir shop and a firing range where visitors
can fire automatic weapons for about a dollar a bullet.
A brief on tunnels: In the Sixties and Seventies,
Cu Chi was part of hotly contested territory during the Vietnam War. Cu Chi was
a point in the "Iron Triangle", a 60 square mile area in the Binh
Duong province of Vietnam whose residents sympathized with the Viet Cong, or
Communist rebels in the South.
Cu Chi also functioned as an important depot in the "Ho Chi
Minh Trail", through which supplies and troops filtered from Communist
North Vietnam to rebels in American-allied South Vietnam. The U.S. military top
brass recognized the importance of the Cu Chi Tunnels, and tried several times
to flush the tunnels out.
Operation Crimp in 1966 attempted to bomb the Viet Cong out of
their position, but many parts of the tunnel network were bomb-proof.
Booby-traps in the tunnels scared off the 8,000 American and allied soldiers on
the ground at Cu Chi. The tunnels' innovative engineering meant that grenades
and poison gas couldn't flush out or trap the Viet Cong inside the tunnels.
Operation Cedar Falls in 1967 increased the troop complement to
30,000, including "tunnel rats", or specialists trained in tunnel
warfare (see image above). "Tunnel rats" had no fancy equipment - at
most they'd be equipped with a .45 pistol, a knife, and a flashlight.
Carpet bombing and tunnel rat infiltration succeeded up to a
certain point, but the local guerrilla units simply melted into the jungles,
taking back Cu Chi when U.S. operations in the area had ceased.
What
made Cu Chi Tunnels so successful as a base of operations? Chalk it up to the
tunnels' brilliant engineering: borne out of trial and error, as well as the
hard work of the Viet Cong, who carved the tunnels out by hand with simple
picks and shovels.
At its heyday, the tunnel network stretched over 75 miles
underground, reaching as far as the border of Cambodia. The tunnels were eked
out by hand, at a rate of five to six feet a day.
The tunnel network contained hospitals, living quarters,
kitchens, bomb shelters, theaters, and weapons factories.
Smoke from kitchens and weapons factories were built with long
multi-chambered chimneys that would disperse the smoke from fires, preventing
any revealing plumes from being seen by enemy forces.
Ground-level air vents were disguised as anthills or termite
mounds.
Quietly burrowing right under the U.S. forces' feet, the tunnels
provided safe hiding places and invisible hatchways through which Viet Cong
could strike at a moment's notice, and vanish just as quickly as they appeared.
U.S.
soldiers who tried to infiltrate the tunnels faced multiple challenges: the
cramped tunnels were too small for most American servicemen (though just right
for the slim, short Vietnamese), and the passageways bristled with stinging
insects and lethal booby traps.
Tripwires would detonate mines or grenades; pits swung open to
impale soldiers on sharpened bamboo punji stakes.
The surrounding countryside was littered with improvised mines,
jeopardizing American forces on the ground. The source of these mines? The
American forces themselves.
Bombs and other weapons used by American forces were collected
by Viet Cong and brought to Cu Chi's underground smithies, where they were
converted into mines, rocket launchers, and other weapons. In short, the
Americans were giving the Viet Cong free weaponry to be used against
themselves!
The war was over by 1975; the Communist North eventually took
the South in one push, and the tunnels was subsequently cleaned up as a war
memorial.
Today, Vietnamese tourists come to commemorate their dead and
remember the struggle, while loads of Western tourists come to explore the
tunnels for themselves.
Some tunnels have been enlarged for the sake of bulkier
Westerners. These tunnels are sprayed and cleaned regularly, so visitors don't
get bitten or blinded by dust or vermin.
The only hazard down there is claustrophobia - even the enlarged
version is a tight duck-walk, and it's an immense relief to make it up the
metal staircase that leads aboveground.
The tunnels open to tourists are just a tiny fraction of the Cu
Chi network at its peak; most of the tunnels have collapsed from disuse, so the
tourist site features one enlarged tunnel and a few bolt-holes for
demonstration purposes.
The bolt-hole shown above demonstrates the tunnels' small size
and high stealth factor. The holes and tunnels fit the slim, compact frame of
most Vietnamese, and exclude the tall, stocky frames common among American
servicemen.
A Cu Chi guide demonstrates how to enter and shut the hole - the
guide enters feet first, holds the lid high above his head (left), and bends at
the knee so the rest of his body can slide into the opening (center).
Once his whole body is inside, the guide then slides the lid
into place (right), leaving almost nothing on the surface that indicates the
location of the hole.
For American servicemen in the area during the Vietnam War, it
must have felt like being attacked by ghosts.
Cu Chi Tunnel exhibits are clumped into a few key groups.
The amphitheatre is normally the first stop on the tour -
tourists are escorted into a hollowed-out pit in the ground, covered with a
camouflaged roof, and shown a diagram of the Cu Chi Tunnels, as well as a
black-and-white propaganda video made in the 1970s.
Visitors are then escorted by guides to check out other
practical demonstrations of Cu Chi Tunnels' tools of war. One underground
pavilion showcases the different types of traps laid by Viet Cong to ensnare
American troops in the area. The traps are laid out against a painted backdrop
showing U.S. soldiers in the throes of agony. The examples shown in the
pavilion are quite ingenious (if cruel), ranging from simple bear traps to door
traps that swing down on victims unlucky enough to open the wrong door.
Another pavilion covers a diorama depicting a typical Viet Cong
weapons factory. Unexploded U.S. bombs and other captured weapons were brought
to these factories, where they were fashioned into mines, grenades, and other
weapons that could be used against American forces in Vietnam.
Out in the open, visitors can see tunnels and tunnel openings in
action; examples of captured American weaponry (including masses of unexploded
bombs, and most spectacularly, a decommissioned Sherman tank); and a
demonstration of a pit trap in action, its bottom lined with sharpened punji
stakes.
At the end of the
trail, a substantially-stocked souvenir shop awaits thirsty visitors, selling
food, drink, and tokens of the trip.
You can purchase a copy of the propaganda
video they showed you at the ampitheater (if one viewing wasn't enough for
you), or buy mementoes including (but not limited to) lighters salvaged from
American servicemen, embossed with division insignias and hard-ass mottoes
("I know I'm going to heaven because I've already been to hell: Vietnam").
If souvenirs are not your thing, you can spend
your money instead on ammunition for the nearby firing range. No charge for
firing your choice of weapon, but the ammo doesn't come cheap - rates as of
November 2009 are as follows:
·
M16, M60 - VND 30,000
per bullet, or about $1.67
·
AK-47 - VND 26,000 per
bullet, or about $1.45
·
M30, M1 - VND 24,000
per bullet, or about $1.34
·
K54, K59 - VND 25,000
per bullet, or about $1.40
The tour takes three hours from start to finish - not including
transport to the site and back, but including a trip to a Handicap Handicrafts
outlet, where living victims of the war create artworks for export.
WAR REMNENTAS MUSEUM:
Operated
by the Vietnamese government, the museum was opened in September 1975 as
"The House for Displaying War Crimes of American Imperialism and the Puppet Government [of South Vietnam]." Later it was
known as the Museum of
American War Crimes, then as the War
Crimes Museum until as
recently as 1993. Its current name follows liberalization in Vietnam and the
normalization of relations with the United States.
The
museum comprises a series of eight themed rooms in several buildings, with
period military equipment located within a walled yard. The military equipment
include a UH-1 "Huey" helicopter, an F-5A fighter, a BLU-82 "Daisy
Cutter" bomb, M48 Patton tank, and an A-1 attack bomber.
One
building reproduces the "tiger
cages"
in which the South Vietnamese government housed political prisoners. Other
exhibits include graphic photographs, accompanied by short copy in English,
Vietnamese and Japanese, covering the effects of Agent Orange and other chemical defoliant sprays, the use of napalm and phosphorus bombs, and atrocities
such as the My Lai massacre. Curiosities include
a guillotine used by the French and
the South Vietnamese to execute prisoners, last in 1960, and three jars of
preserved human foetuses deformed by exposure
to dioxin.
There
are a number of unexploded
ordnance stored in the corner
of the yard, seemingly with their charges removed.
After the War Memorial we
went to see the Reunification palace meandering through the Ho Chi Minh City
and savouring the hubbub of a very busy city on the move forward.
The Reunification Palace that was the
former residence of the President of South Vietnam until April 30, 1975.
Prez office war room roof of
palace banquet
hall
under
ground
It took almost one and half
hour to see the Palace. The rooms were decorated with simple but in elegant
sophistication but no where it seemed opulent. Many historic photographs were
display
After lunch, we visit the
Reunification Palace that was the former residence of the President of
South Vietnam until April
30, 1975. Then, continuing our trip visiting War Remnants Museum
that is formerly known as
the Museum of American War Crimes. This is a poignant display the
futility of war. Close to
the museum, we visited Giac Lam Pagoda
that is Saigon’s oldest and
finest pagoda, dating back
to 1744. Take continuing to Cho Lon that is well justified as
Vietnam’s largest market. We
returned to our hotel via Thanh Market - a bustling shopping area.
23 Nov Day
10: Saigon – Mekong Delta
After breakfast, we left the
hotel at 7.30 for a 3-hour for driving to Cai
Be.
On our way to Cai Be we
took a stop at Cao Dai Temple in My Tho City. It is a unique religion
worshipping only one eye.
Cao
Đài was established in the city of Tây Ninh, Vietnam, in 1926. During the First and Second Indochina Wars, members of Cao Đài were
active in political and military struggles, both against French colonial forces
and Prime Minister Ngô
Đình Diệm of South Vietnam.
Their
opposition to the communist forces until 1975 was a factor in their repression
after the fall of Saigon in 1975, when the
incoming communist government proscribed the practice of Cao Đài. In 1997, the Cao Đài was granted legal
recognition.
According to the Cao Đài myth of creation, before God existed,
there was the Tao, the
nameless, formless, unchanging, eternal source referenced in the Tao
Te Ching. Then a Big
Bang occurred,
out of which God was born (emanationism).
The universe could not yet be formed and to do so, God created yin
and yang. He took control of yang and shed a part of himself,
creating the Goddess to preside over yin. In the presence of
yin and yang, the universe was materialized. The Goddess is, literally, the
mother of the myriad of things in the Universe.
The altar at My Tho city fusion of eight gods
We took a stop en route at
Trung Luong Bonsai garden and Mai asked us to take tea if so inclined. We
declined and requested her to move on as we wanted to visit as many places
possible than whiling away the time in refreshment. Still we took a quick round
of the garden but we could not find tempting bonsais to captivate us. We
proceeded to Mekong River and upon arrival, board a motorized boat to visit the
popcorn cake, rice paper making family before visiting the lively floating
market of Cai Be.
We got down at one rice
factory on the bank of Mekong. Many were involved in making rice, coconut
candies and rice paper. Making of popcorns was a delight to see. Without modern
gadgets local were making these items with skilled precision and efficiency. We
did taste many of the items followed by green tea.
Then we continue by boat
towards Vinh Long province to see the diverse fish traps in order to
learn a kind of lazy
fishing.
Boat make shift bridge cork roots
We also came across the life at riverside. Post office, STD
booths, furniture, mobile, sim cards photo goods, hardware, boat/auto repair facility,
you name the thing and it is there. I was mesmerised. There were even petrol
and diesel filling shops by the riverside for the motorised boats and private
owners of motor bikes.
The hawkers in boats were
selling all kinds of possible things. These hawkers are not interested in the
tourists. These are basically for the local population; Besides individuals
even the whole sellers also buy from them.
Boatmen hang the item on a pole so the people living at the bank or
on other boats can see from a distance and call the boat to their doorsteps. In
olden times traders from different countries used to come
through Mekong river to
sell their produce. Language being the barrier such talisman helped the natives
to bargain and buy the things.
People on the bank of
Mekong appeared more colourful with jest of life.
After cruising along small
shady canals, we stepped ashore and took an opportunity to watch a typical and
interesting music show of the Mekong cultural life.
Local hospitality
folk songs rendered
jack fruits in bonsai garden
We got down from the boat
and visited a local family who offered us variety of fruits including mango. A
Vietnamese girl sang romantic songs which Mai explained that a lonely young
girl was calling her lover who had gone away to town and there was no news of
him for long. She was accompanied on violin by another artist. Avi got so
motivated that he offered to sing one song for them. He just gave few beats and
the man on violin picked it immediately and Avi sang....
All of us enjoyed
conversing with them with the help of our guide. The lady of the house gave a
rose to Avi for the song.
Afternoon, take a walk for about half an hour
to enjoy the rural peaceful atmosphere of the countryside life Just on the
river bank we visited another catholic house and was apprised of their life
style. They had a carpenter’s shop just on the bank of river and just behind
that the family of six were living. The outer room was decorated with family
photographs and the photo of the deads were on a raised table with incense
burning. I gathered from visiting many houses and meeting people that
Vietnamese worship their ancestors more than any of god of their faith. The
room behind was common room where the family sit and spend time together. These
rooms convert into sleeping area at night. Beds were covered with bamboo mats.
Kitchen and wasrooms were at the back of the house. A huge photo of Jesus was
benignly smiling at us.
On the way back we took a
stop in a garden to learn more about local fruits and trees. We drove back to
Saigon after a very long trip and there was a gradual change from rural to
urban area.
The next on agenda was Notre Dame Cathedral and the
Central Post Office that are some of the best examples of French colonial
architecture. Notre Dame Cathedral was
built between 1877 and 1883, and the stones used to create it were exported in
its entirety from France.
Following
the French conquest of Cochinchina and Saigon, the Roman
Catholic Church established a
community and religious services for French colonialists. The first church was
built on today's Ngo Duc Ke Street. There had been a Vietnamese pagoda, which
had been abandoned during the war. Bishop Lefevre decided to make this pagoda a
church.
The
first church was too small. Thus, in 1863, Admiral Bonard decided to build a
wooden church on the bank of Charner canal . Lefevre put the first stone for
construction of the church on 28 March 1863. The construction was completed two
years later and was called "Saigon Church". When the wooden church
was damaged by termites, all church services were held in the guest-chamber of the French Governor's Palace. This palace
would later be turned into a seminary until the Notre-Dame Cathedral was
completed
The
Statue’s Tears :
During
October 2005, the statue was reported to have shed tears, attracting thousands
of people and forcing authorities to stop traffic around the Cathedral.
However, the top clergy of the Catholic Church in Vietnam confirmed
that the Virgin Mary statue in front of a
cathedral did not shed tears, which nevertheless failed to disperse the crowd
flocking to the statue days after the incident. The reported 'tear' flowed down
the right cheek of the statue.
All the
original building materials were imported from France. Tiles have been carved
with the words Guichard Carvin,
Marseille St André France(famous society producing and exporting tiles at
the beginning of the 20th century). Some tiles are carved with the words
"Wang-Tai Saigon". Many tiles have since been made in Saigon City to
replace the tiles that were damaged by the war. There are 56 glass squares
supplied by the Lorin firm ofChartres province in France. The cathedral foundation was
designed to bear ten times the weight of the cathedral.
Saigon
Central Post Office is a post
office in
the downtown Ho
Chi Minh City, near Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica, the
city's main church. The building was constructed when Vietnam was part of French
Indochina in
the early 20th century. It has a Gothic architectural style. It was designed
and constructed by the famous architect Gustave Eiffel in harmony with the
surrounding area. It was built since 1891.
Accommodation:
Hotel in Saigon
Meals:
Breakfast
24 Nov Day
11: Saigon Departure (B)
We had a complete night rest but
with a twitch in the heart that it was the end of our visit to Vietnam though
we were coming back after Cambodia just to take flight to Singapore. We got up
early next morning and drove to the bus stand to take a bus route to Phnom
Penh.
Cai
Be
